The first edition of the book is now sold out. We have a second edition in the works that will be available in January 2023. Watch this space or instagram for updates: @justinkprim



About the Book

The Secret Teachings of Gemcutting is a collection of classic gemstone cutting designs spanning 500 years. 50 gemstone designs are presented here with full color photos, design information, cutting advice, and historical background. This collection consists of the time tested, industry-standard gemstone designs that can been found in the jewelry from high-end brands as well as independent bespoke jewelry designers. Each design is presented in two different height options so that they are compatible with both lower RI stones (such as amethyst and emerald) and higher RI stones (such as ruby, sapphire, and spinel).


Aside from the designs, the book includes 30 pages of essential gemology for cutters which contains invaluable information about gemstone design, optics, crystal systems, hand preforming, gemstone physics, modifying diagrams, pairing rough gems with appropriate designs, and more. This information is critical for cutters who want to understand how these elements influence the appearance of the final stone.


Traditionally, the gemstone cutting trade has been very secretive and this collection marks the first time these designs have been compiled for public consumption. This volume will prove useful for gemcutters who want to cut these essential designs and for jewelers who would like a visual aid for designing gemstone-based jewelry as well as presenting different gemstone styles to their customers.


The gemological information presented here is practically a gemstone design crash course all on its own. Cutters with and without a gemology background will take something away from this book, whether it has to do with orienting trichroic stones or cutting the perfect cushion mixed cut.


The Spiral Edition

Two editions of The Secret Teachings of Gemcutting are being offered here. The first option is a softcover spiral bound edition that will prove most useful to gemcutters. All the pages are full color and the book can be folded and laid flat for easy use while sitting next to a faceting machine.


The Hardcover Edition

The hardcover option presents the same content as the spiral bound edition but in an attractive perfect bound hardcover that will sit well on jewelry studio desks and bookshelves. Both editions of the book are presented in full color on premium paper to help the images pop and transmit the unique emotive qualities of each gemstone design.


Back Story

This book is the culmination of over four years of intensive research. Since 2017, I've travelled all over Europe, North America, and Asia to meet gem cutters, learn their techniques, document their stories, study their unique faceting technology, and internalize all of this data so that I could make a comprehensive and comparative study of faceting techniques from around the world.


This book is the first tangible expression of this massive undertaking. By training under different cutters from around the world, I've been able to learn all the major cutting styles that today's jewelry industry relies upon. Over many years and many miles, I've documented, photographed, and diagrammed these designs, and I now present them in one concise and attractive volume.

The Secret Teachings of Gemcutting